What is Madrid's number one, not-to-be-missed attraction?
Paris has the Eiffel Tower; Rome has its Coliseum. Even Barcelona, a.k.a. Anti-Madrid, boasts the inimitable Sagrada Familia. As famous as the Prado and the Palacio Real de Madrid are domestically, these are not quite household names in the same breath as Alhambra or Santiago de Compostela.
And that leads many misinformed tourists to reduce Madrid to a day or two, almost as an afterthought compared with the justifiably popular Barcelona and Granada. But much of Madrid's magic lies not within its city proper, but with its remarkable collection of UNESCO World Heritage Sites within day-trip distance. This series of articles will focus on three outstanding day-trips within an hour's train ride which, combined with the obviously world-class destinations of Toledo (30 minutes by train) and Segovia (1.5 hours by bus), would ensure a week's worth of excellent sightseeing for a first-timer based in Madrid.
It would be appropriate to start with the greatest single piece of Spanish renaissance architecture and the so-called Eighth Wonder of the World according to the Spaniards, the Royal Monastery of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. From Madrid Atocha station it took us a 60 minute ride on a suburban Cercanias train, followed by a short hop on the local bus or a 20 minute uphill walk.
Still occupied by St. Augustine monks and only partially open for public tours, this is a colossal complex encompassing a 16th century royal residence, one of Europe's greatest libraries from the age of Inquisition, mausoleum of past and present Spanish dynasties, and a stunning basilica in addition to the monastery, boarding school and a painstakingly maintained formal garden.
Majestic in a stern, minimalist fashion in stark contrast to the emerging Baroque architecture of its era, the monastery prominently placed atop pedestals the greatest Biblical monarchs in the order of David and Solomon, guarding the entrance to a basilica modelled after Solomon's Temple. Just as Philip II has intended, his palace would double as one of the most regal churches in Christiandom.
No photos were allowed in the interior, but any visitor should vividly remember the brilliance of the jewel-laden altarpiece, masterpieces by the likes of Titian and El Greco, and the heavy solemnity in the Pantheon of Kings where five centuries of Spanish royalty are entombed in their gold-and-marble sepulchers.
To properly appreciate the sheer enormity of the Royal Monastery, most photographers would take the five minute walk to Parque Adolfo Suarez immediately to the southwest for an unobstructed panorama of the complex. To this day the Spanish still use the expression "la obra del Escorial" to signify a lengthy and arduous effort.
Gastronomic heights are best not to be anticipated from a small town flooded by thousands of never-returning tourists on a daily basis. But upon adjusting our expectations we did find a plethora of reasonable offerings for 3-course Menus del Dia, in my case a Revuelto de Morcilla followed by a slow-braised Rabo de Toro, plus dessert and wine for 16 euros.
That's typically the case with most day-tripping destinations anywhere in the world, be it El Escorial or Izumo Taisha or Disneyland. But that's okay -- we had a wide selection of outstanding tapas bars for dinner near our rental apartment in Madrid.
Bill for Two Persons
| Menu del Dia x 2 | 32 Euros |
| TOTAL | 32 Euros (CAD$48) |
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