At Hagi we came across the absolute best value for seafood, anywhere in Japan.
Ever seen Abalone Sushi for 100 yen (CAD$1.2)?
How about a plate of Poisonous Fugu Sashimi for 150 yen (CAD$1.8)?
Or 300 yen (CAD$3.5) for a full Kaisen-don (Sashimi on Rice) set with 12 varieties of seafood, complete with Tsukemono and soup?
Based on recommendations from local residents we sampled three eateries in Hagi: one offered incredible deals on Sushi and Sashimi, another served top notch Kaiseki cuisine at discount prices, and a third served Wagyu Beef direct from its own cattle farm, all worthwhile for the 90-minute trip from the nearest Shinkansen stop.
Food Review: AMIIGO (Hagi)
Address: Kamigoken-machi 33, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi Prefecture
Hours: 11:00-14:00, 19:00-24:00; Closed on Tuesday
Map: from Google Maps
Directions: Starting from Hagi Bus Centre, walk north for 250m and turn left before the Buddhist temple. Walk west for about 250m (3 block or so) and Amiigo is on the right side, across from Seikoji temple. See the photos below as the entrance is tiny and easy to miss.
Frankly I would have never found this place on my own.
Had I stumbled upon this 1980s nightclub in a back alley without prior knowledge, fresh Sashimi would have been the last thing on my mind. Kitschy stuffed panda aside, this was by far the shadiest dining spot we had ever visited in Japan, despite having been warned by the locals.
"Nimei-sama desu ne?" out came an Obasan from behind the bar counter, towel in hand and ready to seat us into a dark, cavernous hall with saggy sofas and a dance floor dimly illuminated by pink spotlights. The sole occupied table glanced at us before returning to their wine glasses and tumblers of whiskey. Great, I thought, we just walked into a Japanese cabaret.
Seeing our hesitation, the friendly Obasan motioned us back to the bar counter where we sat alongside a group of 50-year-old, chain-smoking male clientele. For a brief moment I wondered if we're at the wrong Amiigo, as this setting was too bizarre to be a Sushi place, even for the Japanese.
Then the menus came, in the form of handheld whiteboards, with scribblings of lunch options at prices that were simply ridiculous.
| Sushi (Nigiri) Set Lunch | 300 yen (CAD$3.5) |
| Seafood Sashimi Rice Bowl (Kaisen-don) | 300 yen |
| Fried Calamari Set Lunch (Ika-Furai Tei) | 300 yen |
| Miso Karubi Beef Rice Bowl | 300 yen |
| ... and so on |
800 yen for a Sushi Set would be considered cheap at the cheapest conveyor-belt-sushi joints, and anything below 500 yen is simply unheard-of. Now we knew we had found the right Amiigo, the legendary lunch spot among Hagi's blue collar workers.
With some skepticism I ordered the Kaisen-don ... I mean, how much seafood could we possibly expect for 300 yen (CAD$3.5)?
Uni, Ikura, a small scallop, Buri, Tai, cooked shrimp, Tako, Saba, Maguro etc, 12 varieties in all, including upmarket ingredients such as Sea Urchin and Salmon Roes. But most amazingly ... the freshness was actually respectable! 300 yen! How was this even possible?
Even more shocking were the prices on the seafood menu:
| Sashimi Teishoku | 200 yen (CAD$2.4) |
| Fried Belt Fish (Tachiuo Karaage) Teishoku | 350 yen |
| Puffer Fish (Poisonous Fugu!!) Sashimi Rice Bowl | 400 yen |
| Sea Urchin Rice Bowl (Uni Yamakake-don) | 400 yen |
| Salmon Roe Rice Bowl (Ikura Yamakake-don) | 400 yen |
| Puffer Fish Soup (Fugu-jiru) Teishoku | 500 yen |
| Angler Fish Soup (Ankou-jiru) Teishoku | 500 yen (CAD$5.9) |
The Sashimi set lunch for 200 yen (CAD$2.4) -- cheaper than most 7-Eleven sandwiches -- was simply absurd. And while Puffer Fish Sashimi on Rice sounded tempting, my eyes stopped at the 400-yen Sea Urchin Rice Bowl.
It wasn't only Sea Urchin and rice, but a complete set lunch with Tsukemono pickles and a soup, for 400 yen! While the Uni wasn't the freshest of fresh, the quality was still better than the cheapest sushi joints charging twice as much, which would still be cheap for Uni-don. But 400 yen (CAD$4.7) for an Uni-don set lunch? This was just impossible.
The ridiculously cheap prices just kept coming:
Sushi Menu:
| Awabi (Abalone!!) | 100 yen (CAD$1.2) |
| Uni (Sea Urchin) | 100 yen |
| Ikura (Salmon Roes) | 100 yen |
| Fugu (Poisonous Puffer Fish) | 100 yen for 2 pieces!! |
| Salmon, Tuna, Squid, Octopus etc. | 100 yen for 2 pieces |
| Hiraso | 100 yen for 2 pieces |
Sashimi Menu:
| Ika (Squid) Sashimi | 100 yen (CAD$1.2) |
| Tako (Octopus) Sashimi | 100 yen |
| Awabi no Tsuno (Abalone Liver) | 100 yen |
| Fugu (Poisonous Puffer Fish!!) Sashimi | 150 yen (CAD$1.8) |
Seriously I had NEVER seen Abalone Sushi for less than 300 yen a piece, or Poisonous Fugu Sashimi for less than 800 a plate. Something didn't make sense here, but as a client I was certainly ecstatic about the prices.
Here's our cheapest Fugu Sashimi ever at 150 yen (CAD$1.8), served with a traditional Ponzu dipping garnished with Momiji-Oroshi and green scallions, exactly as you'd expect at a Fugu specialty restaurant in Osaka. We had Fugu Sashimi again at our hotspring Ryokan later that evening, and this was no different in terms of freshness. In fact the Fugu slices were actually thicker here, and even came with a bonus Yubiki salad of chewy Fugu skin on the side.
Next came the Salmon Roes and the Abalone for 100 yen (CAD$1.2) a piece. The Ikura was about as fresh as I'd expect from a fish market! And at 100 yen a piece!! While the Abalone wasn't quite as remarkably fresh, it was certainly amazing value at this rock bottom price. My verdict was ready -- this place was legit!
But my favorite was something I had never tasted before, a deliciously fatty fish which also happened to be among the cheapest menu items, at just 50 yen (CAD$0.6) a piece.
At first I thought the scribbled menu said Hirame (ヒラメ, or flounder), but it was Hiraso (ヒラソ) as Obasan corrected me. Hiraso? I had no idea until my first taste of its oily flesh, similar to Buri but slightly milder in taste and crisp in texture. 50 yen a piece? I had to get more of this!
"Yoku taberu ne!" Good appetite huh, said Obasan as we ordered a second round of our favorite Sushi -- two Hiraso, two Ikura, two Abalone and one Uni. To this date I'm still shaking my head at the 100-yen Abalone Sushi and 150-yen Fugu Sashimi. Secretly I wondered if this was a money laundering operation for the Yakuza, though I would rather not find out!
Our final bill of less than 2000 yen for two people summarized it all -- this had to be the best value for seafood anywhere in Japan. As we walked out we did take a photo for the benefit of fellow travelers already salivating -- Amiigo is hidden inside the ugly greyish white building on the right side of the photo.
Bill for Two Persons
| Kaisen-don | 300 yen |
| Uni Yamakake-don | 400 yen |
| Fugu Sashimi | 150 yen |
| Nigiri-zushi: | |
| Awabi x 4 | 400 yen |
| Ikura x 4 | 400 yen |
| Hiraso x 4 | 200 yen |
| Uni x 1 | 100 yen |
| TOTAL | 1950 yen (CAD$23) |
For independent travelers on a budget, Amiigo would be my top recommendation not only for Hagi but anywhere in West Japan. But if you're willing to spend a little more, consider Amiigo for a cheap dinner and splurge for a discounted lunch at a modern Ryotei at Hagi's charming Samurai Quarter. It's a little pricier, but definitely worthwhile.
Food Review: KAISEKI-RYORI AJIRO (Hagi)
Address: Minamikatakawa-machi 68, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi Prefecture
Hours: 11:30-15:00, 17:00-22:00; Closed on Wednesdays
Map: from Google Maps
Directions: From the famous Kikuya Residence, walk west for 150m and turn left at the main road. Walk south for 200m and Ajiro is on the left side.
This is arguably the best restaurant in Hagi and certainly one of the most prestigious of our 16-day journey. Former Prime Minister Koizumi was just one of many dignitaries who visited this premier restaurant specializing in Kaiseki Ryori, the pinnacle of Japanese haute cuisine. While 10000+ yen meals may be the norm, deep discounts are available if you come for lunch.
Centred upon a Kyoto-influenced courtyard to reflect the seasonality of Kaiseki food ingredients, Ajiro serves up 13-course dinners ranging from 5400 to 13000 yen (CAD$64 to $150), including themed dinners featuring Fugu and Okoze, two distinct species of fish that could turn deadly poisonous in the wrong hands. But you don't need to pay 13000 yen -- 9-course meals start at just 2200 yen (CAD$26) if you arrive at lunchtime.
We ordered two of the cheaper 9-course lunches: a Ten Sashi Gozen (2900 yen) with dual entrees of seasonal Tempura and Sashimi, and an Amadai Yakizakana Gozen (3300 yen) featuring the highly prized grilled Amadai, a local San'in specialty that I had never seen, let alone tasted, before.
Both meals kicked off with the best Gomadofu either of us had ever tasted, mildly sweetened, heavenly soft and yet slightly resistant to the tongue's push before disintegrating with the full aroma of crushed sesame. Perfectly matching the sweetness was the savory, concentrated Dashi dressing at the bottom, always the signature of a top Ryotei.
Next came a Sunomono salad of paper-thin slices of cucumbers and gelatinous snapper skin, blanched in Yubiki style. Like most dishes at Ajiro this was served in quality Hagi-yaki earthenware, the pride of local artisan clans for centuries.
The third course was a Sashimi salad of Kensaki squid tentacles and blanched lily bulb, drizzled with a vinaigrette of pickled Japanese plums. Another quality dish of local San'in ingredients, in a surprisingly French presentation.
The fourth and fifth courses were the only dishes where the two lunch sets diverged. Arriving as entree #1 of the Ten Sashi Gozen was a Sashimi of three catches from local fishing boats: Kensaki squid, Tai snappers and Tachiuo or belt fish, the latter prepped in Yakishimo-zukuri style where the skin side was torched before being cooled down in an ice bath.
One must admire the delicate knifework in the squid sashimi, meticulously prepped to tenderize the chewy texture and bring out the natural sweetness of the fresh Kensaki Ika. All three ingredients were presented in top notch, fish market freshness.
Even more impressive was Entree #2 of the Ten Sashi Gozen, presenting a delectable Tempura with the usual Botan prawns, eggplant, Shishito pepper, Shiitake mushroom plus one exquisite seasonal ingredient, Tennen Torafugu, or wild harvested tiger puffer fish as highlighted by our server. This was actually our first taste of the prized Torafugu -- let alone a non-farmed one! -- as this exclusive regional specialty is normally outside of our budget. Everything from the lightness of the crispy batter to the savory Tentsuyu dipping was first-rate, and having Poisonous Fugu a third time in four meals in Hagi was certainly a welcomed bonus.
But it was the highly anticipated Amadai, centerpiece of the Yakizakana Gozen, that turned out to be the best of the meal. Underneath the beautiful and curiously angular fish head was a sizeable skin-on fillet, expertly seasoned, broiled to perfection and served with grated Daikon and a stem of Myoga ginger as palate cleanser.
If this wasn't the best grilled fish we had ever tasted, it would be at least among the top three. The skin was as crisp and aromatic as it appears in the picture, the flesh had a texture softer than any snapper I knew, and the fish head was a delight to slowly pick apart and savor. In retrospect this was probably our best dish in Hagi.
The Yakizakana Gozen also came with a serious Aka-Miso, deeply aromatic from the fermentation and delightfully Umami from a Kombu Dashi base that was simply exceptional, much like all other dishes at Ajiro.
Both meals wound down with one of my wife's perennial favorites, a silky soft Chawanmushi with the child-like indulgence of chewy Shiratama rice balls, normally a dessert topping, buried at the bottom as a surprise. With refillable rice and some quality Tsukemono pickles, this was turning into a substantial lunch with loads of Omega-3 from all the seafood.
Even the dessert -- luscious Warabi-Mochi in a syrup of Okinawan brown sugar -- was the best of our 16-day trip! While 6200 yen (CAD$73) for a lunch for two wasn't exactly cheap, this particular meal, especially the Amadai and the Tempura, was worth every single yen. And besides, one could always balance the budget with an impossibly cheap dinner at Amiigo.
Bill for Two Persons
| Amadai Yakizakana Gozen | 3300 yen |
| Ten Sashi Gozen | 2900 yen |
| TOTAL | 6200 yen (CAD$73) |
It was almost impossible to get away from seafood at this remote stretch of the San'in Coast, and our only non-seafood meal was a deliberate decision to visit a locally famous Beef Yakiniku place, specializing in its own breed of Wagyu from its cattle farms.
Food Review: AMIYAKI RESTAURANT KENRAN (Hagi)
Address: Horiuchi 89, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi Prefecture
Hours: 17:00-22:00, Closed on Mondays
Map: from Google Maps
Directions: From the entrance to Hagi Castle, walk southwest on the main road flanking the small canal for about 500m. Before the main road turns into a long bridge across Hashimoto River, turn right and cross to the west side of the canal. Amiyaki Restaurant Kenran is housed in a modern-looking building on the left surrounded by a large parking lot.
Conceived as the natural outlet of a cattle farm, Amiyaki Restaurant Kenran is part meatshop, part Yakiniku restaurant focusing on Hagi's own local brand of cattle, a cross of the critically endangered Mishima-Ushi with Dutch Holstein studs and branded as Kenran-Gyuu. The meatshop actually had some nicely marbled Kenran-Gyuu steaks for about 2800 yen per 100 g, but for us it was just easier to sit down for Yakiniku.
And prices were about the same at the restaurant, charging 3132 yen (CAD$37) for a Tokusen Roosu (premium sirloin) steak from the Kenran cattle. To be honest we somewhat expected a softer cut of Wagyu after being spoiled by our previous Yakiniku dinner at Matsue's butcher-operated Kitagaki, though I wouldn't complain about the nice beefy flavors from this Holstein cross. At this price however I would have preferred two orders of our next dish ...
... this beautiful Ootoro Karubi, or premium short ribs. A look at the fine marbling and we knew this was a special cut, buttery soft and bursting with the fatty juices that one expects of quality Japanese Wagyu. This was as good as the same cut we had at Kitagaki a few days back, at roughly the same price of 1620 yen (CAD$19).
Who could resist the aroma of charred red meat served with dippings of peppered oil or Miso soy sauce? The only complaint was that despite the restaurant's name of Amiyaki (i.e. wire grille), the grille was actually a slotted stainless steel plate which stuck more to the meat compared with wire nets.
Next came the most expensive dish of the meal in terms of weight, six paper-thin slices for a cool 1274 yen (CAD$15) in this plate of Gyuutan Negishio, or Beef Tongue in Salted Green Scallions.
While this wasn't Kenran-Gyuu anymore, it was certainly worthwhile to beef tongue lovers like my wife who really enjoyed its slightly chewy texture enhanced by the strong fragrance of scallions.
Time for a cheap and filling cut of beef to finish out the meal. This plate of Nakaochi Karubi, or rib finger meat, fit the category of odds-and-ends that the affiliated meatshop would have trouble getting rid of. At 1058 yen this was certified Wagyu Beef at chain restaurant (i.e. PepperLunch) prices.
After four plates of Wagyu Beef, two plates of veggies and a couple beers, our total bill ended up at nearly 9500 yen for two. The mysterious Kenran-Gyuu didn't quite turn out as soft and delicious as hoped, though I'm still curious about its full-blooded parent, the extremely rare Mishima-Ushi rumoured to supply the Japanese market with only two or three heads per year. From the perspective of a budget foodie though, Matsue's Kitagaki offered better value for quality Wagyu.
Bill for Two Persons
| Tokusen Roosu Steak | 3132 yen |
| Ootoro Karubi | 1620 yen |
| Gyuutan Negishio | 1274 yen |
| Nakaochi Karubi | 1058 yen |
| Assorted Grilled Veggies | 432 yen |
| Seaweed Salad | 626 yen |
| Large Beer x 2 | 1296 yen |
| TOTAL | 9438 yen (CAD$111) |
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