I revisited Macau with someone who spent part of her childhood here in the 1980's, during the Portuguese era and before the former colony developed into the Vegas of the Sinosphere. A quarter century later she returned, roaming her old playgrounds and bringing me to photograph the old city through her eyes.
For two days I was guided through crumbling backstreets, snacking at the fast disappearing Dai Pai Dongs and gaining an in-depth appreciation for the little pockets of Old Macau that have endured into the 21st Century.
While many of these photos were shot within the UNESCO World Heritage Site, such street corners are typically skipped by tourists for their anonymity and largely ignored by locals for their state of decay. Another 20 years and much of this could be gone, which was why I wanted to capture this intimate perspective of Macau before it's too late.
Rua dos Mercadores No.121. Revered as the oldest existing pharmacy in Macau, Hang Wo Tong is a living fossil for everything you'd expect at a Traditional Chinese Medicine shop -- jars of aged Xinhui Citrus Rinds at the storefront, Lingzhi mushroom everywhere, and a century-old Baizi medicine cabinet with individual little drawers for a plethora of herbal and animal ingredients. Sadly the 4th generation descendants have said their generation will be the last to operate this family heirloom.
Rua da Felicidade, outside No.26.. The aroma of seaweed-wrapped egg roll biscuits permeates the air at this infamous former red light district, which saw its golden age after the English enforced the ban on brothels at nearby Hong Kong in the 1930's. Now the neighborhood is all about artisan-made biscuits and restaurants specializing in old-fashioned Cantonese recipes from the 1950's and earlier, many of which had gone virtually extinct in Hong Kong.
Travessa do Auto Novo No.25. Still fighting a flu picked up three days ago in Sichuan, I was brought to the venerable Cha Medicinal Un Iec, a Macau institution that has cured the local populace of coughs and flu for generations. For 7 Patacas (CAD$1.2) I was served a scaldingly hot bowl of their secret recipe Medicinal Tea, arguably the most representative Cantonese remedy for the common flu. The taste? Imagine Fisherman's Friend times ten, served in a coarse liquid form.
Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro No.611. Foodies around the world have long familiarized with the Cantonese invention of Oyster Sauce, and this little shop was the birthplace of it all. With humble beginnings in Macau in the late 1800's, Lee Kum Kee has since blossomed into an international operation with factories as far away as Los Angeles. Today the pillars of this Tong Lau building are still graced with red-character advertisements from the pre-WWII period for its well-loved condiment.
Largo do Carmo on Taipa Island. Incense curls and prayer sheets hang inside the Qing Dynasty shrine of Pak Tai Miu, or the Temple of the North Emperor. Established by a local community of fishermen, the Taoist shrine not only honoured the deity in charge of all sea creatures, but also served as a village court for the settlement of disputes in the presence of local tribe leaders.
Rua de Camilo Pessanha No.38. A throw-back to the 1950's is still alive and well in the form of Carvoaria U Wo, supplier of charcoal from a variety of hardwoods. Once a household necessity during the short but bone-chilling Southern Chinese winter, charcoal is now consumed mostly by specialist gourmet eateries focusing on traditional recipes such as Roasted Geese or Cantonese Claypot Rice.
Rua da Felicidade No.36. Sharks Fins as tall as a small child grace the display window at Sai Nam Restaurante, yet another Macau institution that has stood for over a half century. To environmentalists though this small street is the epicentre of the Sharks Fin trade in Macau, where the wealthy can blow their casino winning on the ridiculously expensive (300 Patacas per Tael, or roughly CAD$1 per gram) and controversially harvested Sharks Fin.
Rua dos Ervanarios No.42. The clanging sound of Mahjong tiles proclaims break time at Veng Kei Latoaria where shop owners and hired hands alike put aside the anvil for a little afternoon entertainment. Demand for galvanized-iron goods has been declining for decades, and the current stock on display are mostly Chinese Woks and baking cups designed for the Portuguese specialty of Pastel de Nata.
Rua de Cinco de Outubro No.197. Occupying the ground floor of an old 4-storey Tong Lau building is Sum Ip, the neighborhood handyman for all your air conditioner and refrigerator servicing needs. Such repair shops for home appliances and electronics are slowly becoming extinct even in Macau, amid the rise of disposable consumer products.
Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro No.396. The words "Maturity Date 6 Months" still adorns the walls of Tak Seng On, one of the last traditional pawn shops in Macau to close its doors. After serving this gambling town for nearly 80 years, this fully functional multi-storey bank vault has been turned into a quaint little museum. Entrance fee? A measly 5 Patacas (CAD$0.8).
While entire blocks of Tong Lau, old tenement buildings with a mixture of indigenous Chinese and neoclassical Western features, are becoming increasingly rare in neighboring Cantonese cities and Hong Kong, the Macau Peninsula is still lined with streets upon streets of this nostalgic backdrop.
Avenida de Carlos da Maia, Taipa. Across the bridge from the Peninsula lies the idyllic former island village of Taipa, a relatively new annex to the Portuguese territory just 160 years ago. While the island isn't protected as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, its slow-paced island vibe and cheap bites make for a good half-day trip.
Rua da Figueira, Taipa. Just one of an impossible number of temples on this short alley, Yi Ling Miu is a Qing Dynasty shrine dedicated to a multitude of historical figures associated with the medical profession. Apparently back in the day this also served as the community centre, adult night school, banquet hall, and storage space for a spare coffin for the occasional neighbor in such need.
Avenida de Carlos da Maia, Taipa. Just up the hill from the countless indigenous shrines, the neoclassical Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo dates from late Qing Dynasty when Taipa fell into Portuguese hands. To this date it remains the only Catholic church on Taipa.
Avenida da Praia, Taipa. Situated on what used to be the southern shoreline of Taipa Island, prior to the land reclamation project that turned the shallow bay into the brand new casino strip of Cotai, this row of colonial Portuguese residences has always been popular for first dates and wedding photos. The Wedding Registrar is housed in yet another gem of colonial architecture, conveniently just up the street.
These former colonial residences for government staffers have since been restored and converted into a folk museum of Portuguese-Macanese culture. The return of Macau's sovereignty to Beijing had become the final straw in the Macanese diaspora, and there are now more Macanese in Brazil or Australia than in their native Macau.
At the museum we chanced upon this fascinating Fotomo exhibition by Hong Kong artist Alexis Ip, who had captured this moment in history with a massive model of the entire Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro. In a sense this is also what I'm doing with this series of photos, but far from the grand scale and gorgeous style demonstrated by the master.
Rua do Guimaraes No.286. Back on the Peninsula we wrapped up in the Baia do Mastro neighborhood, once famous for its hand-sculpted mahjong tiles and extravagant ivory carvings. This is the end of my photos on Macau's architecture and cityscape, and in the upcoming posts the focus will be on the lip-smacking Macanese cuisine, from Michelin 3-star restaurants to the cheapest Dai Pai Dong street stalls.
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