From our homebase in Bologna we took three separate day-trips to Emilia-Romagna's three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, starting with a quick and cheap (25 minutes and a measly 3.75 euros!) train ride to the neighboring historic city of Modena. Make no mistake -- this is THE Modena of Balsamic Vinegar fame, though this compact ancient city packs a lot more than just condiments.
While foodies know Modena best for its heavenly rich vinegar or possibly its Prosciutto or Lambrusco, and car aficionados know it as the birthplace of Enzo Ferrari and the namesake of Ferrari 360, to architecture fans it is synonymous with one of the world's greatest Romanesque masterpieces, a grand 12th Century Duomo with its gleaming white Campanile gracing a medieval square aptly named Piazza Grande.
Showcased throughout the external facades and internal naves is a perfect symbiosis between architecture and decorative art, the intimate collaboration between the ingenious architect with one of the period's greatest sculptors. There were simply too many details, such as the 700 year old golden crucifix overhanging the altar, to appreciate in one visit.
My favorite area of the cathedral was the elegant and tranquil crypt hosting the sepulchre of San Geminiano, the city's patron saint credited with saving Modena from the marauding hordes of Attila back in the 5th Century with a miraculous dense fog. I normally don't care for legends and relics, but the solemn atmosphere -- and the coolness of the basement -- was the perfect refuge from the 33 degree heat on this unseasonably hot September day.
We wrapped up our visit of Piazza Grande with the obligatory climb of 200 or so steps up the 12th Century bell tower of Ghirlandina, reopened in time for our visit after four years of restoration efforts. Through a slightly obtrusive chain fence one could appreciate the modest skyline of the historic centre, which probably hasn't changed very much since the Renaissance.
No disrespect to Modena's rich historical heritage, but we almost skipped it for Mantova until I was seduced by a much more modern attraction that would make any big boy's heart race. A short seven minute walk from the train station leads to the new Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari (note: not Museo Ferrari in Maranello), a 2500 square metre showroom filled with so many of the world's greatest driving machines, classic or brand new. In case you're wondering ... yes, that is a 950hp LaFerrari in the foreground.
On prominent display of course was the city's namesake, the popular 360 Modena which, although no competition to the LaFerrari in terms of horsepower, goes 0 to 100 in a respectable 4.3 seconds.
There were also rare one-of-a-kinds such as this F512M from the 1971 Le Mans showdown. And if you're inclined to take a spin on the racecourse yourself, there was an F1 simulator with its extremely complicated steering wheel and replica cockpit.
Just as interesting as the main exhibition hall was the 19th century warehouse that belonged to Enzo Ferrari's father, now an annex of the museum hosting a dream stable of Italian classics.
For Ferrari fans there is hardly anything more classic than this gorgeous 1947 125S, the first car to ever carry the Ferrari label.
Other extraordinary specimens include this 575 GTC that competed at Le Mans, as well as Michael Schumacher's record setting F2001. You can see why I was more fascinated with the exhibits inside this unassuming warehouse than with the brand new museum building.
Then there are the monster engines such as this fearsome 6260cc, 660hp V12 from a F140, a testimony of the popular joke that one buys the Ferrari for its engine and the rest of the car come free.
As we left we paid tribute to Enzo himself, immortalized as a wax sculpture inside his old office. For us Modena was an easy and rewarding day-trip, a Primo of UNESCO World Heritage architecture followed by a Secondo of exceptional driving machines. And plus, the best is yet to come in one of the most memorable lunches of our trip.
TRATTORIA IL FANTINO
Located at Via Donzi 7; 3 minutes walk east of Modena Cathedral
It's almost impossible not to eat well anywhere we traveled in bountiful Emilia-Romagna, especially here at one of Italy's agri-food capitals. Located at the historic heart of Modena was this little trattoria that we found totally packed at lunchtime, and understandably so when we saw their offering of fantastic regional cuisine at very affordable prices, exemplified by a 15 euros set lunch of Mixed Salumi with Tigelli and Gnocco Fritto Modenese.
At this point I had only the faintest idea what Gnocco Fritto was, but the Antipasto of Salumi Misti was absolutely top quality with Salame di Felino, Mortadella and best of all, some of the moistest and most succulent Prosciutto di Modena, certainly among the best Prosciutto we've ever tasted.
Arriving with the Salumi was a basketful of fresh-from-the-oven Tigelli served with a range of traditional fillings for our picking, including the local invention of Pesto Modenese, a seriously thick spread of flavorfully cured lard and rosemary. Also available of course was the classic combination of creamy Squacquerone with arugula.
After experimenting with multiple combinations we had to concur with the conventional wisdom of the locals -- Squacquerone does go best with Arugula and either some Prosciutti or Salami. I don't think we finished the entire mountain of Tigelli as we had even better things waiting for us.
Introducing one of the best dishes of our entire 23-day trip -- Bocconcini di Pollo all'Aceto Balsamico, nuggets of chewy free-range chicken braised in unquestionably the best balsamic vinegar reduction, in fact the deepest, fullest-flavored vinegar of any nationality we've ever tasted. At the bargain price of 10 euros this surely couldn't be Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, but this reduction was magical enough that I would gladly return to Modena in a heart beat, just for this one dish alone.
But there was more to come. At last arrived the enigmatic local favorite of Gnocco Fritto Modenese, which turned out to be the lightest, most pillowy fried dough ever. While our neighboring diners seemed to love their Gnocco with Prosciutto or Salame, we discovered what we experimented to be the most delicious use of the puffy dough -- to mop up the remaining balsamic vinegar reduction! The complex acidity of the syrupy thick sauce was simply the perfect match for the oiliness of the Gnocco, much better than the fatty and savory salame IMHO. At roughly 30 euros this was one of our most satisfying sit-down meals in terms of price-quality ratio, yet another reason to love Modena.
Bill for Two Persons
| Gnocco e Tigelli con Salumi Misti | 15 Euros |
| Bocconcini di Pollo all'Aceto Balsamico | 10 Euros |
| Bottle of Water | 2 Euros |
| Coperto x 2 | 4 Euros |
| TOTAL | 31 Euros (CAD$43.4) |
A velvety cup of traditional vanilla gelato from Gelateria Bloom provided the ideal icing on the cake for our excursion to this mouthwatering and oft neglected destination in North Central Italy. The next day we would continue our tour of Emilia-Romagna's World Heritage Sites, at the even more underrated gem of Ferrara.
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