Pilgrimage to Vicenza, Masterpiece of Andrea Palladio

For months I was looking forward to this field trip as any self-proclaimed fan of architecture would, planning my face-to-face with some of the most influential works in the Western world. Teatro Olimpico, Basilica Palladiana -- all fixtures in textbooks of classical architecture and all owing to the overwhelming genius of one man.



I surmise that not every visitor had heard of Andrea Palladio prior to arriving at Vicenza, but all would surely appreciate the splendour and perfect balance of his creation the moment one steps inside Teatro Olimpico. Sublime was the word that came to mind, when witnessing a level of beauty that transcends architecture itself.



Every spring the Vicentini still enjoy their orchestra and jazz season at this spectacular stage from the Renaissance era, and visitors like us arriving out of season would have to be content with appreciating these intricate details in awed silence.



Our arrival at Teatro Olimpico took an easy 50 minute train trip from Verona followed by a 7 minute bus ride to Piazza Matteotti. The minor logistic issue of luggage storage (no storage facility at Vicenza train station!) was easily handled by the friendly staff at the Tourist Info office directly on Piazza Matteotti, right next to the theatre, and for free! With backpacks off our shoulders we took a half-day meandering through one of the prettiest city centres of our journey.



Right across Piazza Matteotti stands another textbook example of Palladio's work: open loggia, column clusters and capitals in Doric and Ionic forms. 465 years later the Palazzo Chiericati still welcomes guests with its timeless appearance and may well continue to do so for the next five centuries.



With a dozen projects scattered around the historic centre, a Palladio building is never far away especially when one wanders down his namesake Corso Andrea Palladio towards Piazza dei Signori. Palazzo Thiene stands at one end of a sidestreet while the pictured Palazzo del Capitaniato graces the opposite end at the entrance to the Piazza.



Dominating the Piazza is the masterpiece that eventually became known as Basilica Palladiana, a massive reconstruction project that turned a half-collapsed, formerly Gothic palazzo into this gleaming specimen of Renaissance architecture. Basketball games and other absurd distractions are no longer held inside, and during our visit the premises was mainly occupied by an art exhibition as well as a rooftop bar-caffetteria.



Besides Teatro Olimpico, the stately Palazzo Chiericati was one building I enjoyed so thoroughly that we returned in the afternoon for an in-depth appreciation of everything from the frescos in the vestibule to Palladio's original manuscripts to a small art collection that included a Van Eyck and a Picasso.



If I could add one more day to our 23-day journey to turn just one of many day-trips into an overnight stay, elegant Vicenza would have been an easy choice for its collection of classical palazzi packed into a small historic centre with an affluent and yet laid-back vibe. It would have taken at least one more day to properly visit everything I was interested in.



For those like myself who just can't get enough of Palladio, there's a museum dedicated entirely to the great architect housed inside one of his lesser-known buildings, the Palazzo Barbaran da Porto. Scale models like these became consolation for not having enough time to visit many of his masterpieces located outside of the city centre.



Aside from building Palazzi for affluent clients across the Venetian Republic, Palladio apparently also designed a funeral chapel at the Chiesa di Santa Corona where thorns believed to hail from the Christ's crown are still venerated by Catholic faithfuls to this date. Regardless of whether one chooses to ascribe to the theory, the exquisiteness of the architecture and ornamentation can hardly be disputed.



Even the Duomo once boasted a gigantic cupola of Palladio's design, which speaks to the architect's wide scope of influence in his hometown. IMHO Vicenza is a must-visit for architecture fans, and an eye-pleasing day-trip for any casual tourist.

While in Vicenza ... it would have been unthinkable not to order some authentic Baccala alla Vicentina for lunch. For this reason alone we dropped into arguably Vicenza's best known store for anything to do with Baccala, at the gastronomia-cantina-ristorante of Il Ceppo.




GASTRONOMIA IL CEPPO
Corso Andrea Palladio 196, about 100m west of Palazzo Chiericati

With the outward appearance of a upscale Salumeria to the uninitiated, Il Ceppo operates a little Enoteca / Ristorante in its basement wine cellar for those looking to sit down in comfort rather than taking out the Baccala Mantecato for picnic. Prices were fair and the set lunches comprising of Antipasto, Primo, Dolce and Caffe for 22 Euros appeared to be reasonable deals.



We shared two different set lunches -- one based on Veneto's terrestrial produce and one based completely on classic baccala dishes synonymous with Vicentina cuisine. The terrestrial-themed lunch started with generous portions of Salume on a cutting board: Asiago d'allevo, Sopressa Vicentina, and some heavenly slices of Prosciutto Veneto di Montagnana. During our 23 days in Italy we had Prosciutto at least once or twice every day, and this Montagnana was some of the most delicious Prosciutto of our trip.



A Bigoli with Duck Ragu was the Primo del Giorno in the terrestrial-themed lunch. The sauce was so rich that I was sure it wasn't just duck meat, but also contained a healthy dose of duck liver for that fullness of flavor.



The Baccala set lunch started with a Tris di Baccala crowned with the smoothest, creamiest paste of Baccala Mantecato, so luscious that we actually returned to buy some for our dinner on the train later that evening.



A few nuggets of Baccala Frittelle, and some Baccala in the form of salad rounded off a gratifying Antipasto in Vicentina style, but there was more Baccala coming from the kitchen.



This was the renowned local dish that we came for: Baccala alla Vicentina, a testament to the resourcefulness of the locals in converting dried stockfish into textures rivaling those freshly caught along the Venetian coast. Of the four preparations of Baccala in this meal, my own favorite was the Mantecato, followed by the Frittelle while the Baccala alla Vicentina, the original reason for our visit, turned out surprisingly unmemorable.



Desserts consisted of a selection of semolina cookies, pastries and torte, followed by a good espresso. Three course lunches for two, some local wine, some water and caffe for a total of just over 50 Euros. This wasn't exactly cheap, but reasonable for a good sampling of local flavors.

Bill for Two Persons

3 Course Lunch x 2	44 Euros
Glass Wine x 2	6 Euros
Bottle of Water	2.5 Euros
TOTAL	52.5 Euros (CAD$73.5)

Not that our lunch wasn't filling enough, but it's difficult to resist when Gelateria Sonia next door was serving a watermelon flavor on this warm day!



As mentioned we returned to Il Ceppo before leaving town, packing a whole container of their signature Baccala Mantecato, more Prosciutto di Montagnana and the pictured prawn and scallop salad for a substantial 24 Euros, likely our most expensive picnic ever to take on our 2.5 hour train ride into the Alps for the next leg of our journey. We certainly made good use of that fat reserve from the creamy Baccala Mantecato during our 6 hour hike to a snowy mountain pass the next day.

Bill for Two Persons

Baccala Mantecato	7.34 Euros
Insalata di Gamberi, Capesante e Verdure	8.50 Euros
Verdure alla Griglia	3.11 Euros
Prosciutto Crudo di Montagnana	4.74 Euros
Bread	0.44 Euros
TOTAL	24.13 Euros (CAD$33.8)

Verona - Restaurant Reviews

One of the best meals of our 23-day journey happened right here in Verona, in a small Osteria at a hard-to-find corner of the old town.

OSTERIA IL BERTOLDO
Vicolo Cadrega, 2a; about 250m north of Piazza Erbe


Despite being located just a few minutes north of Piazza delle Erbe, Il Bertoldo's storefront on a narrow alley wasn't easy to locate without a map. Only 6 tables occupied the historic half-timber floor space, making it a good idea to call ahead for reservations, which we did a couple weeks ahead of arriving in Italy.



The focus here isn't your typical Veneto fare of Seppie al Nero or Baccala alla Vicentina, but regional specialties from far away Campania hand-picked by an owner from the deep south. With limited stomach room we opted to share one Antipasto, one Primo, one Secondo, one Contorno and one Dolce between the two of us, starting with a wonderful Zuppa di Fagioli con le Vongole that tasted of the sharp briny essence of fresh Mediterranean shellfish. The picture above was my half portion of probably the best soup of our trip, and immediately we knew that we could expect raw ingredients of the highest quality with this little Osteria.



The chef then followed up with one of the best pasta dishes of our trip, a Spaghetti alla Gaetano in a chunky sauce of diced mussels, savoury tomatoes amid a mild tinge of spicy peperoncini. Again pictured above was only a half-portion as the chef was graceful enough to split the dishes for us. A full portion would have been too filling for me.



Our Secondo was a Branzino in Crosta di Patate, a nearly boneless fillet of sea bass oven-baked under a potato crust. We had a split decision on this one -- I thought it was modestly commendable while my wife really enjoyed the caramelized potatoes and the freshness of the fish.



For Contorno we had a simple order of Verdure Grigliate that turned out to be one of the best vegetable dishes of our trip. There was nothing fancy -- only the freshest organic artichokes, aubergine and zucchini, grilled and crowned with a light drizzling of an extraordinary olive oil that really brought the entire dish to life.



Finally for Dolce, a Sicilian Cannolo filled with the creamiest whipped ricotta inside a crunchy fried pastry dough. Thankfully we did have the foresight of ordering everything in split portions as the Primo alone would have been filling enough for either of us.



Did I mention the fantastic house red at 4 euros per 1/4 Litre? This wasn't one of those boring and unmemorable house wines typical of middle-of-the-road trattorie you'd come across in any Italian city -- this was an intensely berrylike and yet well-balanced Aglianico from the owner's homeland in Campania, the best house wine of our entire trip! And at 4 euros for 1/4 Litre!

From start to finish every course was skilfully prepared with exceptional ingredients, from the cheap but tasty fried dough (some of the best we've tasted, all included in the 2 Euro cover charge) to the Primo and Secondo to the house wine. We could easily revisit Verona just for one more meal at Il Bertoldo, if we ever pass by Northern Italy again.

Bill for Two Persons

Zuppa di Fagioli con le Vongole	8 Euros
Spaghetti alla Gaetano	10 Euros
Branzino in Crosta di Patate	15 Euros
Verdure Grigliate	4 Euros
Cannolo	5.5 Euros
1/4 Litre of House Red	4 Euros
Coperto	4 Euros
TOTAL	50.5 Euros (CAD$70.7)

BOTTEGA DELLA GINA
Via Fama, 4c; about 150m west of Piazza Erbe


If Il Bertoldo was small in terms of seating, Bottega della Gina was miniscule in providing just two tables for its long queue of clientele, and taking no reservations whatsoever! Food lovers are presented with two choices -- take out your favorite Tortellini for a picnic, or wait in line with the locals for the two coveted tables. Even on a Wednesday in September we still waited 25 minutes for lunch.



Once you're inside you immediately see the appeal of this homey little joint: trays of fresh handmade Tortellini, Tortelloni and Ravioli filled with everything from artichokes to champignon to bufala cheese to whatever seasonal ingredient the storeowner decides upon. Stuffed pasta and only stuffed pasta is the main focus, and the line-up for takeouts never stopped as we waited for our food.



My dreadful Italian pronunciation notwithstanding, ordering was a simple exercise of point-and-choose with no serious consequence even if the order comes out wrong, as practically everything was priced below 8 Euros. A "small" dish of grilled vegetables, easily large enough to be shared between two or three, cost 5 Euros.



Our two dishes of Tortellini, one with a champignon filling and one with artichoke and cheese, turned out first-rate as one would probably expect of a homemade pasta specialist. My order did come out incorrect as I originally wanted the Tartufo filling, but no one should ever complain about Italian artichokes.



The friendly owner taught me a new Italian word -- Faraona -- as I asked about a quartered, skin-on bird resembling a Cornish hen on the hotplate. She looked it up on her phone and showed me the English translation of something neither my wife nor myself had ever tasted before, Guinea fowl, with its the gamey flavor and muscular texture. Paired with the richness of the Cacciatore sauce the result was pleasantly beyond our expectation of the typical chicken breast.

Two Primi, one Secondo and a Cortorno to share, no wine, and the total was just under 30 Euros. Not dirt cheap, but authentic home cooking at fair prices, and the portions were large enough to keep us from having dinner until almost 21:00.

Bill for Two Persons

Tortellini con Champignon	7 Euros
Tortellini con Bufala e Carciofi	7 Euros
Verdure	5 Euros
Faraona alla Cacciatora	7 Euros
Water x 2	3 Euros
TOTAL	29 Euros (CAD$40.6)

LA VECIA MESCOLA DELL'OSTE
Vicolo Chiodo, 4; about 250m northwest of the Roman Arena


For a light dinner we decided to go somewhere more upmarket than our usual Trattorie or Osterie, but a comprehensive Ristorante with a fancier menu, just for once. La Vecia Mescola is situated on a small alley just a couple minutes off Piazza Bra, which made it 5 minutes from our hotel. But most importantly it featured one famous specialty that really intrigued the foodie in me.



A double portion of Primo, a Dolce and bottled water was all we ordered for this late dinner at 21:00. We didn't even order wine as I wanted to leave room for my half bottle of Amarone(!) in the hotel room, and the pictured Antipasto of Crostini was already included in the Coperto.



This was the one dish we came for, the eccentric local flavor of Risotto simmered in the decadence of Amarone della Valpolicella, the undisputed king of Veneto wine. Even after cooking the essence of Amarone remained so strong that my wife could hardly finish her portion, and I have to admit that it's somewhat of a complex acquired taste that may be better suited as a side for a Tagliata di Manzo or Osso Buco rather than as a standalone Primo. Nevertheless any true fan of Amarone should be satisfied with its intensity, and its relatively inexpensive price tag for just 19 Euros for the double portion.



Ironically the silky smooth Tiramisu con Amaretto could have used a little more Amaretto liquor, but that's just my personal preference. This was actually a nice restaurant with friendly service and reasonable prices for what it offers; it's just that the flavors on this evening were slightly off according to our tastebuds.

Bill for Two Persons

Risotto all'Amarone, Radicchio e Fonduta di Asiago x 2	19 Euros
Tiramisu con Amaretto	4.5 Euros
Bottle of Water	2.5 Euros
Coperto x 2	5 Euros
TOTAL	31 Euros (CAD$43.4)

2 Nights in Historic Verona

Our favorite corner of Veneto wasn't Piazza San Marco in Venice, the quaint and colorful Burano or Padova's Prato della Valle. It was a little-known terrace by the name of Piazzale Castel San Pietro, situated on a steep hillside overlooking the historic city of Verona across River Adige.



When we showed our friends these photos someone mistook this for Florence, and understandably so if you compare them with the classic postcard view of Florence taken from Piazzale Michelangelo. That's how exceptionally beautiful Verona is as a city and, sadly, how underappreciated it is as a tourist destination in the shadow of heavyweights such as nearby Venice.



For us Verona was the perfect stop in Northeastern Italy, halfway between our longer stays in Venice and the Dolomites and well-connected by trains to Vicenza and Padova for day-trips. We would arrive from our day-trip in Padova, enjoy the city for two nights, depart on a day-trip to Vicenza before heading north into the Alps.



Two nights in town barely scratched the surface of an ancient city packed with everything from Roman ruins to medieval edifices to a Renaissance castle, not to mention its Shakespearean connections. By the end of our stay we joked about how Verona seems to be blessed with a medley of Italy's most iconic sights, combining the panoramic view of Florence with the grandeur of a Roman coliseum.



On the first night we took an after-dinner stroll to laid-back Piazza delle Erbe, a former Roman forum now surrounded by rows of Baroque palazzi from the 1600's as well as two medieval towers. Apparently the Madonna statue in the fountain also dates from late antiquity when Verona was a municipium of the Roman Empire.



But the best-known Roman monument, in fact the undisputed symbol of Verona, is a gigantic 1st century Roman amphitheatre built to seat 30,000 spectators for gladiator shows. After 2000 years the Arena still serves as the largest Roman amphitheatre in Italy to host regular performances such as major rock concerts and a summer opera season. There are only two larger Roman arenas in Italy -- Rome's Coliseum and Capua's amphitheatre -- both of which lay in ruins.



On this day the Arena was being prepped for the annual Festival Show, a free concert featuring a long list of Italian pop stars headlined by Nek this year. Even though the modern seating has been reduced to about half of the original capacity, the noise of screaming teenagers could still be heard outside our hotel until almost midnight.



Almost as famous as the Arena is a 2000-year-old stone bridge spanning over a sharp bend of the River Adige. The Roman engineering survived intact until it was blown up by the retreating Nazis near the end of WWII, but was rebuilt with the original material after the war.



Looming on the opposite shore is yet another 2000-year-old Roman theatre, known simply as Teatro Romano to the locals and utilized mainly for theatre and the ballet season, leaving larger performances such as opera and symphony to the Arena. Instead of being shielded behind glass displays in museums, Verona's Roman heritage still remains an integral part of daily life.



From the top of Teatro Romano one can admire the skyline of the historic centre, made up of a wide assortment of Baroque buildings as well as a few recognizable landmarks from the Middle Ages, all harmonized through the matching red roof tiles that seem to be prevalent everywhere in Northern Italy.



Among the most recognizable medieval architecture are the city's numerous basilicas and churches, from the graceful San Zeno to the Romanesque San Lorenzo to the pictured Gothic Chiesa of Sant'Anastasia. This was possibly the only Italian city on our journey where the Duomo, another Romanesque building from the 12th Century, had to take a backseat in terms of popularity among visitors.



Soaring 80m over Piazza delle Erbe right at the centre of town, the medieval skyscraper of Torre dei Lamberti was my favorite lookout aside from Piazzale Castel San Pietro, due partially to the 360 degree panorama and partially to the modern convenience of an elevator.



To the north stands the impressive Duomo and its unfinished 16th Century clock tower. Further across the river, the conical roof of Santuario Madonna di Lourdes occupies the local hilltop for a commanding position above the city.



On the eastern horizon is the mighty ring of medieval city walls and Venetian ramparts that had safeguarded Verona from its regional archenemies until modern times. Much of this defensive structure, as well as small sections of the ancient Roman walls, still stands. Closer to the tower is the quirky but immensely popular balcony of Juliet, which we visited only because the entrance fee was already included in our VeronaCard.



The decadence of an afternoon nap was one of our main reasons for staying within the historic centre, at a tiny operation known as Romeo Design Rooms. Our room was spacious, well-equipped and contemporary-looking, so long as you ignore the 2000-year-old Roman city wall in the courtyard.



Half a block from our hotel was the Roman Arena and the lively Piazza Bra, arguably Verona's epicentre for shoppers and most convenient for catching buses to the train station. The local version of a SPAR supermarket was about 6 minutes walk away in the direction of Castelvecchio, and most importantly, a small bus stop 3 minutes walk away on Stradone Maffei would take us to our favorite viewpoint ...



The romance of Piazzale Castel San Pietro at sunset. Unless you have your own car or plan to arrive by tour bus, the only access is a mildly strenuous 10 minute hike on a footpath on the north side of Teatro Romano. But it's entirely worthwhile -- so worthwhile that we actually hiked up twice, once in the morning, and once at sunset.



Here's the historic urban landscape of Verona across River Adige when we arrived around 10:30 in the morning ...



... and the same panorama at dusk. It is such scenery that conjures impressions of Florence from the southern hillside across River Arno. And to be honest, Verona from this viewpoint is no less spectacular than its famous Tuscan cousin.



A westerly view in the direction of Sant'Anastasia's campanile at daytime ...



... and the same vista in the romance of the night. These were two enjoyable days that we spent in this gorgeous small city, a slightly underrated destination given its convenient location at the crossroads of Northern Italy. And better yet, we had the best meal of our 23-day journey here in Verona, which will be reviewed in the upcoming article ...