Valencia in 3 Hours? Paella, Silk Exchange and Orxata

We wanted 2 days in Valencia in ideal, were constrained to 6 hours in planning, and ended up with 3 hours in reality.

But compromises are a part of traveling that we've learned to take in stride. Part of it -- losing 90 minutes to boarding the wrong train -- was my stupid mistake, and the rest -- losing another hour to a bloodied assault on the conductor that involved the dramatic chase and arrest of two fare-evading passengers in front of our train window -- was an uncontrollable freak incident.



With 6 hours we could have started with a leisurely lunch of Paella Valenciana, visited the famous Silk Exchange, admired the baroque interior of Parroquia Sant Nicolau and the 13th century Cathedral while sipping an ice-cold Orxata, and perhaps wrapped up with a taxi ride to see the stunning contemporary architecture at the City of Arts and Sciences.



A gorgeous metropolis with everything from charming historic neighbourhoods to grand 19th century boulevards to sleek futuristic event venues, Valencia probably deserves a week to properly appreciate and savour. But with only 3 hours in town before our high speed train connection to Cuenca, we had to condense our checklist down to three emblematic, unquestionably Valencian experiences.



First and foremost, an authentic Paella Valenciana at the birthplace of paella. Chunks of rabbit, chicken, liver, green and white beans adorned this ginormous pan of rice that turned out impossible for two people to finish. The only complaint was that half of our soccarat, the caramelized crust considered by many to be the best part of the paella, was charred to a black, inedible form.

TABERNA ALKAZAR (Valencia)
Location Map
Bill for Two Persons

Salpicon de Marisco	13 Euros
Paella Valenciana	26 Euros
Bottle of Water	3.85 Euros
TOTAL	42.85 Euros (CAD$64.3)

Made-to-order paella meals are never quick, and with less than 90 minutes remaining we headed straight for the Silk Exchange, the city's celebrated UNESCO World Heritage Site and a reminder of Valencia's 15th century heyday as a major power in the western Mediterranean.



On this day a group of local students came to study this proud chapter in the history of Valencia when it rose to mercantile prominence under the Crown of Aragon and as Castille's main port. Traders from as far as Northern Europe and the Near East congregated here to buy and sell textiles, and the Contract Hall served a similar function to today's Euronext or Chicago Merc.



Across from the Silk Exchange the baroque facade of Sants Joan del Mercat, a National Historic Monument in its own right, was a slight consolation for missing Sant Nicolau and the Cathedral. With about 40 minutes remaining it was time to stroll back to the train station to pick up our luggage from the locker.



But not before stopping for an authentic Orxata from a street stand, on a humid 30 degrees day at the end of the Valencian summer! This smooth, nutty concoction became such a favorite for me that we always stopped whenever we saw signs for Horchata Valenciana, even as we traveled halfway across Spain.



We made it back to Estacio del Nord, one of the most beautiful train stations in Spain hailing from the age of Art Nouveau, with little time to spare considering that we still had to make it to the high speed rail station (Joaquin Sorolla) down the street! By 18:10 we were on the move again, zipping through the Spanish countryside en route to Cuenca, which would become one of my wife's favorite towns in Spain.

Barcelona - Review of 7 Eateries

Two important things I learned at Barcelona even before the secession referendum:
1. Catalans do not identify themselves as Spanish
2. Catalan cuisine is not traditionally known for tapas. That’s a Spanish import remember?

Catalan cuisine is more about rustic recipes served often in 3-course meals as I’ve since learned, somewhat reminiscent of Provencal cooking (Allioli vs. Aioli) and arguably closer to Marseilles than Madrid. Of the seven eateries we visited in Barcelona over three days, two were bonafide Catalan institutions and absolutely recommendable, and three others were somewhat recommendable for their price-to-quality ratio. We’ll start with the most memorable meals.

RESTAURANT L'HAVANA (Barcelona)
Location Map

This was unfortunately our last dinner in Barcelona; otherwise we could have dined here every night.

Tucked away in a multi-ethnic neighborhood west of La Rambla, l’Havana was recommended to me by a local as a 70-year-old Barcelonan fixture, serving standard Catalan dishes like Bacalla a la Llauna or even the simple Pa amb Tomaquet to its regulars. We showed up early at 20:00 only to find the lights dimmed, and waited outside until about 20:15. Needless to say, no other tourist was in sight for the entire evening.



One of their specialties was rumoured to be Carxofes Arrebossada, or deep-fried artichokes.

But my wife hates artichokes, grilled, fried, or pickled. I could order this appetizer for a cheap 5 Euros, but potentially get stuck with having to finish it all by myself.

Long story short, my wife finished half of it.

Tiny baby artichokes, simply halfed, battered and deep-fried. No need for any strong or complex flavors when you’ve got raw ingredients of this quality.



And that was followed by one of the best dishes of our trip, Navalles a la Planxa, or razor clams from the hotplate.

Being seafood addicts we had razor clams 5 times over 16 days in Spain -- 3 times in Barcelona alone -- and this was the absolute best. No visible usage of herbs except for garlic infused into the cooking oil; only live razor clams in their absolute freshness, grilled perfectly and seasoned with nothing but rock salt.



Then we arrived at standard Catalan dishes like Bacalla a la Llauna -- arguably the most celebrated Catalan dish of all -- a tenderly baked piece of cod loin, supposedly in a tin (a la Llauna) with a generous dose of paprika and more garlic.



Even better was this unassuming dish of Calamars Farcits, plump, fresh squids stuffed with octopus chunks and filled to the brim with ground sausage. The magic of this dish was in its sauce -- a messy-looking broth that belied its pungent, deep Umami flavor extracted from hours and hours of stewing parts of the octopus that didn’t make it into the stuffing. But the result was eye-opening -- this actually turned out to be my wife’s favorite dish.



We wrapped up with a luscious Crema Catalana, the local variant of Creme Brulee with a hard caramelized crust and a comparatively thicker custard derived from cornstarch. I cannot name one dish that we didn’t enjoy in a superb dinner of Catalan classics within a 10 minute walk from La Rambla. I can’t recommend this place enough, especially to curious travelers looking for that authentic, unmistakably Barcelonan taste.

Bill for Two Persons

Carxofes Arrebossada	5 Euros
Navalles a la Planxa	12 Euros
Bacalla a la Llauna	14 Euros
Calamars Farcits	10.5 Euros
Crema Catalana	4.2 Euros
Glass of Cava	3.25 Euros
Glass of Wine	2.5 Euros
Large Bottle of Water	2.95 Euros
TOTAL	54.4 Euros (CAD$81.6)

If 27 Euros per person is beyond your backpacking budget, fear not -- we were also introduced to a blue collar joint serving full 3-course meals including wine for just 12 Euros.

CAL BOTER (Barcelona)
Location Map

A traditional eatery set among corner stores and auto repair shops in the laid-back urban village of Gracia, Cal Boter is well-hidden from tourist crowds and yet conveniently located a couple metro stops away from Sagrada Familia.

In fact this little gem made the perfect lunch spot between our visits to the World Heritage monuments of Sagrada Famila and Hospital de Sant Pau. No other non-Catalan speaker was in sight ... nor was there an English menu, but one of the staff members went out of her way to translate for us.



What could 12 Euros possibly buy in one of Europe’s most expensive cities? An appetizer of grilled Escalivada or in our case a rich spinach soup, an entree from a list of Catalan favorites such as the pictured Botifarra amb Mongetes, a dessert, and a half litre of house wine or a beer. Anything cheaper and you'll probably end up at 100 Montaditos.



But it’s worthwhile to pay extra for one of the house specialties, ranging from Peus de Porc amb Cargols (Pig Trotters with Snails) to the pictured Bacalla Grata Colloni, one of our favorite dishes in Barcelona featuring a moist, flaky piece of baked cod smothered under the richest, foamiest Allioli.



The Tarta de Santiago was unmemorable, but the wine was ... for the wrong reason. Having to scoop out little fruit flies -- one dead and one still moving -- from my wine wasn’t even the surprising part; the real shock was how the regulars seemed to be quite used to this routine! I guess we couldn’t have asked for a more authentic experience of lunching in an old-school neighborhood joint.

In retrospect, perhaps a beer would have been a better choice than the house wine -- at least it would have come in a sealed can!

Bill for Two Persons

Menu del Dia	12 Euros
Bacalla Grata Colloni	12.9 Euros
Bottle of Water	2 Euros
TOTAL	26.9 Euros (CAD$40.4)

Aside from the two time-honoured Catalan restaurants reviewed above, we also visited one sporting a modern take on traditional dishes.

BAR DEL PLA (Barcelona)
Location Map

This gastropub is at least 60 years removed from the likes of old school l’Havana while still serving what could be called Catalan cuisine, but in its own unique interpretation. I’m not sure if Wasabi vinaigrette will become the norm in 21st century Catalan fusion, but Bar del Pla is certainly leading the charge as we speak.



But first, some crisp, airy Croquetas of calamari in squid ink to start. While Croquetas and derivatives can be commonly found all over the Iberian Peninsula, it was in Barcelona where we most often came across these breaded morsels with the unmistakable black filling made from savory squid ink.



For less than 7 Euros this tapa of Crispy Oxtail with Foie was one of my favorite bites in Barcelona. Underneath the fried onion bits was a boneless chunk of slow-braised oxtail sporting its intense beefy flavor. In fact the oxtail was so perfect by itself that I thought the seared foie on top almost became a detraction.



Also memorable was the regional favorite of Peus de Porc, or boneless Pig Trotters stuffed with ... even more melt-in-your-mouth foie! With its gelatinous mouthfeel paired with crunchy peanuts and red paprika, the tenderly braised trotters took on an almost Sichuanese appearance.



Calcots in Romesco sauce would have been the default favorite in springtime, but this was late summer and we settled for some grilled lettuce. Good food overall, and decent price-to-quality ratio for a modern interpretation of Catalan fare, in trendy El Born just steps from Picasso Museum.

Bill for Two Persons

Croquetas Calamar x 2	3.6 Euros
Cruixent de Cua de Bou & Foie	6.4 Euros
Peus de Porc	8.1 Euros
Cogollos Romesco	6.5 Euros
Beer x 2	5 Euros
TOTAL	29.6 Euros (CAD$44.4)

If you just want a safe and reasonably priced choice for tapas without an absolute emphasis on Catalan cuisine, this popular Cerveceria worked out quite well for us.

CIUDAD CONDAL (Barcelona)
Location Map

Ciudad Condal needs no introduction as one of the most popular cervecerias/taperias in Barcelona, among both locals and tourists alike. Everyone starts with some Montaditos from the counter, in our case the regional speciality of Escalivada con Anchoas and a classic Jamon Iberico. Not quite dirt cheap as 100 Montaditos, but still a good deal at less than 2 Euros each.



As regional cuisine is always our focus, we couldn't resist ordering the house Canelones, the Catalan version of Canelloni baked in a béchamel-like sauce and traditionally served during Christmas. Very rich flavors and modestly priced at just 5.3 Euros.



We also ordered a plate of razor clams that, although not quite as good as that magical dish we had at l’Havana, was surprisingly fresh for a tapas bar. Better yet, what turned out to be our most expensive dish of the evening cost us less than 10 Euros.



To wrap up, a plate of Setas a la Plancha -- that’s chanterelles, shiitakes and oyster mushrooms, not just champignons -- for only 6.3 Euros. After a couple beers our tapas dinner totaled at about 15 Euros per person, a definite bargain considering we’re about a 2 minute walk from Placa de Catalunya and the centre of Barcelona.

Bill for Two Persons

Montadito de Escalivada con Anchoas	1.8 Euros
Montadito de Jamon Iberico	2 Euros
Canelones de la Casa	5.3 Euros
Navajas a la Plancha	9.25 Euros
Surtido de Setas	6.3 Euros
Beer x 2	6 Euros
TOTAL	30.65 Euros (CAD$46)

But if you’re looking for something conveniently off La Rambla, is open even on Sundays, and does not take August off when half the city’s restauranteurs seem to be on summer vacation, you’ll probably end up here like we did:

LA FONDA (Barcelona)
Location Map
This was actually our first meal in town on a Sunday, jetlagged off the plane and searching for some authentic Fideua as an introduction to Barcelona. Los Caracoles down the block was still closed for summer vacation, and we settled for the always-open La Fonda.

La Fonda isn’t known for Catalan cuisine per se, and most of the clientele seemed to be non-Catalan/Spanish speaking tourists popping by for Paella -- well-appreciated by the locals but more of a Valencian dish than a Catalan one -- which is not the best sign. But prices were very reasonable for a classy-looking establishment steps from La Rambla, starting with its monthly special of Tapa Solidaria which turned out to be a pintxo of grilled octopus in a bed of pureed potatoes, for just 1 Euro.



But we did get our share of Catalan flavors in this Fideua de Mariscos con Allioli, a pan full of dried noodles simmered in a rich seafood stock and topped with langostinos, shrimps and mussels. To be honest I was quite pleasantly surprised by the Umami flavor of the broth, especially for its cheap price of 10 Euros. This was much better than the tourist trap that I feared!



We also chose a rice dish from the seasonal menu, an Arroz Marino which came with a deep-fried soft-shelled crab and some form of edible seaweed. The flavor wasn’t quite as good as the Fideua, though the crispy soft-shelled crab did provide a memorable moment.

While the food wasn’t top quality to be honest, for its combination of refined ambiance, decent flavors and very competitive pricing, I though La Fonda was a cheap and safe bet especially around La Rambla on a Sunday when many restaurants are closed.

Bill for Two Persons

Tapa Solidaria	1 Euro
Fideua de Mariscos con Allioli	9.95 Euros
Arroz Marino	11.5 Euros
Beer	1.95 Euros
Bottle of Water	1.9 Euros
TOTAL	26.3 Euros (CAD$39.5)

After five recommendable eateries, we’ve finally arrived at one that I would not recommend.

BODEGA LA PENINSULAR (Barcelona)
Location Map

Frankly this wasn’t our first choice at Barceloneta. Or perhaps the whole idea of having seafood at the harbour district was a bad one in the first place. But Cova Fumada was closed for vacation, as was Can Sole. Even La Bombeta was closed for some reason. Attempting to avoid the rows of English menus on Passeig Joan de Borbo, we ended up at Bodega La Peninsular.



The evening actually started quite well with these Croquetas of Calamari in Squid Ink, crunchy on the crust and flavorsome inside. This was the best dish before the rest of the meal started going downhill.



Next came the razor clams which, despite being excessively salty, were at least fresh and enjoyable as long as we brushed away the excessive seasoning. But nothing prepared us for the next couple of dishes.



This Sepia a la Plancha was among the most stale and flavorless cuttlefish we had ever tasted. I could forgive a seafood restaurant for using frozen stuff, if they at least make a decent effort with a little more charring on the hotplate, or perhaps a good rock salt for flavoring, or perhaps drizzling a quality olive oil for the finish. Unfortunately neither the quality of ingredient nor the effort was observed here.

At this point there were also two musicians who walked in playing their traditional ballads and actively pestered the clientele for money. Annoying, but not quite as inexcusable as the final dish.



This piece of Ventresca, or tuna belly, won the dubious distinction as the worst dish of our 16-day trip.

While this wasn’t my first time to be surprised with a whole mouthful of uncleaned fish scales in a restaurant, it typically happens with a whole steamed or baked fish with skin intact. But a mouthful of scales from a fillet of tuna belly, from a seafood specialty restaurant? On top of the fact that the doneness of the fillet as well as the seasoning were uneven, the scales really put the exclamation mark on a meal that went wrong in a multitude of ways.

Bill for Two Persons

Croquetas Calamares en su Tinta x 2	3.9 Euros
Sepia a la Plancha	9.95 Euros
Navajas a la Plancha	12.95 Euros
Ventresca a la Plancha	16.95 Euros
Cava x 2	7 Euros
TOTAL	50.5 Euros (CAD$75.8)

That’s enough of lunches and dinners. For breakfast we generally relied on supermarket supplies of Jamon Iberico and bread for our own homemade bocadillos, though we did come across a recommendable place for fresh handmade Churros. Not very Catalan I know, but addictive nonetheless.

CHURRERIA LAIETANA (Barcelona)
Location Map

For more than a half century, this tiny mom-and-pop Churreria has been an institution on Via Laietana, literally around the corner from Barcelona’s world-famous concert hall and walkable from either Urquinaona or Jaume I metro stations. As our apartment happened to be a 3-minute walk away, this became a convenient take-out joint for us.



This was where I first learned the phrase “chocolate con churros para llevar!” For 3.6 Euros this was one of life’s little pleasures, light, crunchy and a perfect marriage with the sweet chocolate dip. I don’t even need the extra spray of sugar, but I’ll leave the debate to the connoisseurs.

Bill for Two Persons

Xocolata amb Xurros	3.6 Euros
TOTAL	3.6 Euros (CAD$5.4)

Classic Barcelona in Three Days

Cramming some of the world's most impressive architecture into 72 hours, we opted for a balance of classic Gaudi and lip-smacking Catalan cuisine in Barcelona.



But first, a tribute to the victims of the 2017 terrorist attack on La Rambla, which occurred two weeks prior to our arrival. As guests of this great city we stand together with Catalonia. No tinc por.



Outside Sagrada Familia we witnessed the full force of mass tourism that Barcelonans have been griping about -- seas of megaphone-touting tour guides with their flocks, herded in and out of Gaudi's unfinished masterpiece every 15 minutes or so. Clueless stragglers overflowed onto city streets and often blocked traffic in their blissful mayhem.



That is the price of living in one of the world’s most desirable cities, a rare combination of dreamy architecture, terrific culinary traditions, a vibrant arts scene and sunny Mediterranean beaches. The world wants more Barcelona, and sporadic protests from its fed-up citizens haven’t bucked the trend.



Reality of this backlash hit us even before our trip. Our original Airbnb reservation was cancelled as the apparently-illegal rental suite was raided by the police, and we were lucky to find a last-minute replacement, a scruffy 1-bedroom flat off Placa de Catalunya that charged twice the price of our apartments elsewhere in Spain.



We also arrived at one of the most volatile times in Barcelona’s recent history -- just two weeks after the deadly terrorist attack on La Rambla and four weeks before a looming secession referendum that poised to launch not just Catalonia, but the entire Spain into uncharted territory.



This was the backdrop of our arrival in Barcelona in an atmosphere of anticipation and nervous energy, amid road blocks and officers with automatic weapons at every major street corner on La Rambla. The frailty of life was always at the back of our minds, but it wasn’t going to stop us from enjoying it. No tinc por.


Day 1 – Check In, Gothic Quarter and Block of Discord

14:00. Thank God for at least one prehistoric pay phone on La Rambla that actually worked -- two just gobbled up my precious Euro coins in our frantic attempt to reach the lady who held keys to our apartment. Lesson learnt: try to pick up a Spanish SIM card ASAP, unless you arrive on a Sunday like we did.

15:00. First meal in Spain and we unwittingly stepped right into the rhythm of the locals -- a late lunch by North American standard but perfectly normal for Spaniards. Our first choice of Casa Agusti remained closed for the summer, though we did manage to find another place for the local specialty of Fideua.



16:30. Outside Palau Guell’s elegant facade we learned the significance of arriving on the first Sunday of the month -- all city-owned museums were severely besieged by tourists and locals seeking free, limited-quantity tickets at this monthly bonanza. We ended up skipping both Palau Guell and the Picasso Museum, opting for ticketless attractions at the Gothic Quarter such as the 2000-year-old Roman temple and the enormous medieval Cathedral.



19:00. A sunset stroll along the famous Block of Discord, crowned with Antoni Gaudi’s unmistakable Casa Batllo on Barcelona’s main boulevard, never requires tickets or queuing of course. Just classic Barcelona at a leisurely pace, as long as one watches out for pickpockets.



Arguably the finest collection of Art Nouveau buildings in the world, all marshaled along a kilometer-long stretch of Passeig de Gracia now mostly occupied by upmarket fashion retailers. Not the best neighborhood for dinner options, but a typical taperia (Ciudad Condal) would do on a Sunday evening when most restaurants were closed.



Day 2 – Sagrada Familia, Lunch @ Cal Boter, Hospital de Sant Pau, Palau de la Musica Catalana

11:00. We did our best to hold back expectations heading into our reserved timeslot at Sagrada Famila, as everyone had told us to expect the single most impressive piece of architecture in the world.



And it was.



There was a moment when sunlight punched through the stained glass at just the perfect angle, spraying a dreamy canopy of lights and shadows upon the irregular array of sculpted columns. The above picture was not photoshopped.

Nobody breathed.



13:00. For lunch we booked a table at one of Barcelona’s authentic neighborhood joints for Catalan specialties (to be reviewed in the next post), then visited yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site two metro stops away.



15:00. In 2009 the 600-year-old hospital of Santa Creu i Sant Pau moved into its 21st century facilities to the north, leaving its former home, a modernisme masterpiece designed by Lluis Domenech i Montaner in the early 1900s, open for curious visitors like ourselves.



Handsome Moorish pavilions and lush palm gardens on the surface; well-designed passageways and medical facilities underground. For nearly 100 years this enchanting palace operated as one of Barcelona’s premier hospitals.



17:00. Our final stop on this busy day was a narrated tour and mini recital at Palau de la Musica Catalana, the only concert hall in the world inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.



Aside from Victor Horta’s former studio in Brussels -- which is a private dwelling on a much smaller scale -- this was my first time stepping inside such a majestic building from the height of the Art Nouveau era, still adorned with its vintage lamp stands and this inverted dome of magnificent stained glass above the concert hall.



We would have loved to attend a concert in the Palau’s turn-of-20th-century grandeur, but this short piano recital was the only scheduled performance during our three days in town. The pianist turned out far from perfect even to these untrained ears, though I’m sure it was the opulence of the venue that every visitor would fondly remember.

19:30. Headed down to Barceloneta with local seafood in mind, except that our top two choices for dinner were both closed for summer vacation!



Day 3 – Parc Guell, Casa Batllo, Casa Mila, Dinner @ l’Havana

11:00. We managed to cram three of Gaudi’s most renowned works -- all inscribed as World Heritage Sites -- into our final day in Barcelona, starting with our reserved visit to the whimsical Parc Guell before the midday sun became too ferocious.



Selfies with the comical salamander was compulsory, as was the panoramic view of Barcelona beyond the twirling, multi-coloured balustrades and gingerbread-like guardhouses. Half of the terrace was closed for renovations which made that ideal spot for the postcard panorama even more contested.

13:30. Back to the Gothic Quarter for a lunch of local tapas (Peus de Porc!), followed by some shopping and a quick nap. We’re slowly getting into the rhythm of the Spanish siesta.



16:30. At last, our favorite attraction not only in Barcelona, but perhaps anywhere in Spain.



A spectacular spiral staircase that took the shape of a dragon’s spine. A mushroom-shaped alcove with a fireplace and built-in seats. A roofline decorated with multihued scales of the dragon’s back. Every corner of the 5-storey residence was as stunning as the next.



Organic curves flowed so effortlessly that it became impossible to tell where structural columns ended and ornamental flourishes began. My wife’s favorite spot was the central well with shark gills for ventilation and variations of blue ceramic tiles that transported the visitor inside some ginormous aquatic creature.



18:15. We could have stayed longer at Casa Batllo, but Casa Mila’s famous rooftop sculptures beckoned just 500m away, 75 minutes before closing time.



Honestly I would have been content just admiring Casa Mila’s facade from a distance, but this summer the city offered 50% off entrance fees after 18:00 as part of the Estiu de la Ruta del Modernisme campaign. This was much appreciated after Casa Batllo charged the most expensive admission ticket of our 13-cities journey across Spain.



Scale models and demonstrations of Gaudi’s ingenuity were fascinating enough, but it was the army of twisting warriors on the rooftop that put Casa Mila on the World Heritage list. It was the perfect spot to enjoy the Catalonian sunset in late summer, above the Barcelonan roofline and in view of Casa Batllo from a distance.

20:15. We happened to saved our best meal for last at Restaurant l’Havana, a Barcelonan institution for traditional Catalan cuisine for over 70 years. A review will come in the next post -- stay tuned.