Cheap Sichuanese Eats in Dujiangyan

The best cure for our mild altitude sickness was two leisurely days of authentic peasant food at Dujiangyan.



Yes, this is Dujiangyan of UNESCO World Heritage fame. Most visitors focus on sights and miss the mouthwatering Sichuanese dishes at this laid-back city, and we almost did the same. We originally planned for just one night to see Mount Qingcheng, and were glad to stay for two and fully appreciate the locals flavors.



After a restless night of rapid heartbeats and shortness of breath at Mount Siguniang, we descended from the Tibetan Plateau's easternmost edge through treacherous mountain passes 4500m in elevation. Road conditions could hardly have been worse, but we did pound through the section of Highway S303 destroyed by the Wenchuan Earthquake years back. For the next two days we would enjoy a break from high altitudes before returning to an elevation of 2850m at the medieval walled city of Songpan.



We were lucky to reserve a room (elong.com to the rescue again) just hours before our arrival. Basing ourselves near the bus station was ideal for traveling to Mount Qingcheng, the Old Town of Jiezi and our next destination of Songpan. Located also in this working-class neighborhood were some of Dujiangyan's best cheap places for authentic Sichuanese eats, from Twice Cooked Pork to Braised Tofu to Catfish in Chili.



With two nights in town we reserved one full day for Mount Qingcheng and Jiezi, and spent our first afternoon visiting Dujiangyan's historic quarter, also known as the Ancient City of Guanxian. While it's remodeled way too much to be ancient in my view, it's still a pleasant place with at least some authentic markets and shops catering to locals rather than tourists.



My favorite sight in Dujiangyan wasn't even Mount Qingcheng or the ancient irrigation channels, but this obscure little shrine known as the Palace of Ten Dragons (Shilongdian). The intricate series of parabolic rooflines makes for a fantastic subject for any photographer or fan of architecture. And best of all, entrance has been made completely FREE since the great Wenchuan Earthquake. The tourism industry probably still hasn't recovered.



Comparatively the price of RMB 90 to see the ancient irrigation system up close seemed almost extortionate. While we're aware that it's considered one of the great achievements in ancient engineering, we weren't convinced that we would enjoy paying RMB 180 (CAD$32) to see the refurbished dyke and levees. Walking the downstream end of the channels was quite enough to appreciate the furious whitewaters -- in fact my wife felt dizzied by just the sights and sounds of the swirling currents.



Mount Qingcheng and Jiezi will be the subject of the next article. For dinner we followed advices from the locals and returned to the bus station area, taking advantage of the concentration of excellent cheap restaurants in the blue collar neighborhood. We're talking three course meals and beer for two people at RMB 75 (CAD$13.4) or less, definitely cheaper than Chengdu and a steal if you're used to prices in Beijing or Shanghai. And the quality of food was very respectable, as reviewed below:


1. ZHANGSANHONG JIACHANG CAIGUAN

This streetside restaurant is a true Dujiangyan institution. If you have one chance to experience authentic Sichuanese food in Dujiangyan, this would be my suggestion.

The Sichuanese have an affable nickname for such hole-in-the-wall places -- Cangying Guanzi, or Eateries of Flies. It doesn't necessarily imply substandard hygiene, but the tables are typically wobbly and the floors may be sticky and strewn with peanut shells. But that hardly matters to the hundreds of faithfuls returning week after week -- it's the flavor that counts.



Strategically simmering at the storefront were various concoctions of spicy slowcooked goodness one could smell from two blocks away. We arrived early at 18:00, having been warned by the locals of how notoriously crowded this place could get and how the favorite dishes could sell out anytime.



Featured prominently in a giant wok was the ingredient for everyone's favorite dish. Every grandmother in Sichuan probably has a different recipe for Braised Tofu, each with a different choice of side ingredients, peppers and bean sauces. But to be famous for a homestyle dish that even grandma would approve of? That's what makes this little shop legendary.



This was Sichuanese cuisine at its core: simple ingredients married to surprisingly deep, complex flavors achieved through time-honored fermentation processes, and designed to be the perfect companion for plain rice. Suicidal levels of spiciness was not mandatory (we asked for mild), just widely appreciated. At this incredibly low price of RMB 15 (CAD$2.7) it's tough to find a more addictive topping for rice.



Even better was the familiar Twice Cooked Pork, arguably the most famous Sichuanese contribution to the culinary world and my own favorite Sichuanese dish. It had everything I could wish for -- crispy caramelized edges, dose of heat from the green chili and marvelous flavors from the spicy Fermented Bean Sauce. Elevating this to another level was the addition of Salted Pickles, deep-fried to a mouthwatering crisp for that extra zest. I don't think I've had better Twice Cooked Pork anywhere.



This refreshing dish of Shredded Pork with Yellow Chives was almost a palate cleanser in comparison to the rich flavors of the Twice Cooked Pork. Every dish turned out first-rate as the locals suggested, but even more enjoyable was the experience of rubbing shoulders with the neighbours while washing down the Twice Cooked Pork with beer ... and paying about CAD$5 per person!

- ZHANGSANHONG JIACHANG CAIGUAN
- Jingzhong Lu 14, Dujiangyan, Chengdu
- Starting from the Long Distance Bus Station, walk north from the Li Bing statues along the main road of Guanjing Lu. Turn right on Jingzhong Lu. Zhangsanhong is about 50m ahead on the right side.

Bill for Two Persons

Braised Tofu	RMB 15
Twice Cooked Pork with Salted Pickles	RMB 20
Shredded Pork with Yellow Chives	RMB 15
Draft Beer	RMB 15
Rice x 2	RMB 2
TOTAL before tips	RMB 62 (CAD$11.1)

That was dinner on our first night. For lunch we purposely took a taxi to the pedestrian street of Yangliuhe Jie in search of a tiny eatery recommended by the locals, this time a specialist for Dumplings.


2. XINFAN NIUROU DOUHUA

Despite being located within walking distance from the main tourist attractions, this place was so tiny it took us 10 minutes to find, even with its address on hand.

Like most family-run eateries, Xinfan chose to specialize and excel in a small menu of local favorites. The Niurou Douhua in its name refers to the Sichuanese specialty of Tofu Pudding with Beef, but it's the Dumplings that everyone has come for.



The top seller by far was Shuijiao Dumplings with Black Sesame Sauce, a breakfast portion of paper-thin dumpling skin, pork fillings and a fragrant dollop of ground sesame on top. Spiciness was optional -- my wife ordered non-spicy while I preferred mine in mild. Unless you absolutely can't handle spices, I would recommend mild for that authentic Sichuanese kick.



The other variety of Dumplings on the menu was the Sichuanese favorite known as Chaoshou. Spiciness was NOT optional here -- it came unadulterated in a Spicy Fermented Bean Sauce. These were good, but not as extraordinary as the Chaoshou we had at a tiny hole-in-the-wall stall in Chengdu a couple weeks back.



Out of curiousity we did order the shop's namesake Tofu Pudding with Beef. While the Tofu was smooth and velvety as advertised, we just didn't quite enjoy Tofu Pudding as a savory snack rather than a dessert. It was more of an eye-opener for me.



My wife's favorite was -- no surprise here -- this bowl of Drunken Tofu, flavored with the syrupy sweetness of fermented glutinous rice wine. Everything came in small and manageable portions, but excellent altogether as a light meal.

At the end I couldn't resist ordering one more bowl of Shuijiao Dumplings with that addictive Black Sesame Sauce ... in mild spiciness. Those were some of the best Sichuanese Dumplings I've ever had, and I knew I may not visit Dujiangyan again.

- XINFAN NIUROU DOUHUA
- Yangliuhe Jie 67, Dujiangyan, Chengdu
- Take a taxi to the pedestrian street of Yangliuhe Jie. You may want to make use of the above photo of the store front, as it's not easy to find.

Bill for Two Persons

Shuijiao Dumplings with Black Sesame	RMB 5
Shuijiao Dumplings with Black Sesame	RMB 5
Shuijiao Dumplings with Black Sesame	RMB 5
Chaoshou Dumplings with Fermented Bean Sauce	RMB 5
Tofu Pudding with Beef	RMB 5
Drunken Tofu	RMB 5
TOTAL before tips	RMB 30 (CAD$5.4)

After a great meal at Zhangsanhong we returned to the same area for dinner on our last night in town. There was another restaurant recommended by the locals just two minutes walk south of Zhangsanhong, not as incredibly cheap but still a good place for authentic Sichuanese dishes at very affordable prices.


3. TUQIAO SHOUZHANGJI

Tuqiao Shouzhangji was another renowned restaurant within walking distance of the Long Distance Bus Station, also specializing in Sichuanese family dishes. The operation was somewhat self-served: you order at the front cashier, wait for your food at the table and return to the cashier to pay at the end. No gimmicks or fancy service, just solid good food.



This was the biggest single dish of our 18-day trip, in terms of sheer mass.

Frankly we expected something half of this size when we paid RMB 40 (CAD$7.1) for our Steamed Catfish in Black Beans and Green Chili, and were pleasurably surprised to see this monster on our table. While it did take a long time, we had no difficulty finishing this expertly steamed fish with appetizing flavors and minimal bones.



We would have ordered the restaurant's namesake Shouzhangji, or Palm-sized Chicken, except we had little room for meat after that massive catfish. More fitting for our stomach room was this little dish of Chinese Yam and Leeks with a delightful soy-based marinade.



On the other hand this Steamed Squash was way too filling after the fish. I'm not sure if we even finished it.



So here's the finished product -- our 50cm long fish with nothing left but backbones and a gasping mouth. On our way out the cashier gave us a RMB 3 discount for not taking a receipt. That, is the authentic China.

- TUQIAO SHOUZHANGJI
- Guanjing Road First Section 50, Dujiangyan, Chengdu
- Starting from the Long Distance Bus Station, walk north from the Li Bing statues along the main road of Guanjing Lu. The restaurant is about 300m ahead on the right side.

Bill for Two Persons

Steamed Catfish with Green Chili and Black Beans	RMB 40
Stir-Fried Chinese Yam with Leeks	RMB 12
Steamed Squash	RMB 10
Draft Beer	RMB 14
Rice x 2	RMB 2
Discount for Not Taking Receipt!	RMB -3
TOTAL before tips	RMB 75 (CAD$13.4)

Finally we should give props to our comfortable and reasonably priced (less than RMB 200 in late 2014) hotel in Dujiangyan.

An-e Courtyard Hotel seems to be a local chain in Sichuan, and the Dujiangyan branch happened to be located within a 5 minute walk from the Long Distance Bus Station. Staying next to the transportation hub was ideal for catching local buses to Mount Qingcheng or the Old Town of Jiezi, and long distance buses in the direction of Songpan and Jiuzhaigou. Plus, two of the three restaurants reviewed above, all recommended by locals, were in this neighborhood.

But make sure you book your room online (e.g. elong.com or ctrip.com) -- a young Chinese couple walked in and were quoted a price nearly doubling ours.

Day of Drama at Mount Siguniang National Park

They say that tastebuds are inextricably connected to fond memories.

Makes sense. We visited some of the most pristine alpine meadows in the world, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its ecosystem of giant pandas and snow leopards. Yet my most vivid memory from Mount Siguniang was the heavenly aroma of Matsutake Mushrooms.



Yes, Matsutake Mushrooms. The exorbitantly priced delicacy featured prominently in the finest restaurants in Tokyo come every autumn, so beloved that it's called the King of Autumn Flavors in Japanese. Except we're 3000km away from Japan, huddling around a primitive electric heater in a tiny Tibetan-run eatery in the middle of nowhere.



As you can imagine we did NOT come for the Matsutake -- we're simply in the right place (Eastern Tibetan Plateau, 3200m above sea level) at the right time (late autumn, just before the first snow). This was Mount Siguniang National Park in ethnic Tibetan territory, at least 5 hours away from the nearest city.



It was a day when NOTHING went according to plan, starting with our morning ride out of Danba. After a 3-day mini-trip to visit some gorgeous Tibetan villages we decided to move to Mount Siguniang via the county capital of Xiaojin, except scheduled buses had stopped running in the off-season. All we're given was a mysterious cellphone number hooking us up with a certain microvan driver rumoured to be doing the Danba-to-Xiaojin run.



So we called the mysterious cellphone number as told, and at 08:15 stuffed ourselves into a clammy microvan with five local Tibetan heading in the same general direction. Some would hop off halfway and others would hop on, but at the end we promptly arrived at dusty little Xiaojin for just RMB 30 (CAD$5.4) per person.



Getting to Xiaojin was just half the journey -- the next scheduled bus to Mount Siguniang wouldn't depart until noon. Miraculously we flagged down yet another microvan, this one heading for Mount Siguniang (a.k.a. Rilong) carrying another group of Tibetans, for only RMB 20 per person! We couldn't have planned it any better, but by 11:30 we actually made it to the hotel we reserved.



Except nothing went as planned -- our hotel's front gate was found chained with a giant padlock, apparently shut down without canceling our reservation. Our disappointment was profound as months of careful planning had failed to secure a reliable 1-star hotel room in this remote town. Thankfully our microvan driver was so compassionate that he took his own time to chauffer us around, and miraculously we did find another hotel room at a reasonable walk-in price. It's been a tough morning, but at least it all worked out so far.



But this is China, and things can quickly change. We originally planned to stay for two nights, spending the first afternoon horseback riding in Haizi Valley and the second day touring Shuangqiao Valley. Except we found out upon arrival that the Tibetan horsemen had apparently closed shop for the winter season starting early November. While it was a shame not being able to ride those alpine trails I had been so looking forward to, we had to move on to Shuangqiao Valley.



We weren't sure if we had enough time left for Shuangqiao Valley, but we managed to flag down a local SUV and paid the owner RMB 20 for the short drive to the ticket booth. We barely made it on one of the last National Park shuttles to enter the valley at 15:30, sitting on an empty bus alongside four people: the driver, a guide, and just two other visitors.



Shuangqiao is one of three long and narrow valleys officially open to visitors of the National Park, and the only one accessible without long treks or horses and thus doable in a half day. 34km of well-maintained mountain roads ultimately led to an exhaustingly high elevation of 3800m, a country of soaring vultures and stubborn yaks.



Everywhere we toured we're reminded by whitewashed Stupas that the valley has been the ancestral homeland of Tibetan nomads, long before it became a National Park and eventually a World Heritage site. Primitive huts remain scattered along the valley, serving as seasonal bases for modern day cowboys and their yaks.



We would have taken advantage of the extensive boardwalks along the valley's prettiest spots if we had a full day. But the moment we decided to visit Shuangqiao Valley in the afternoon, it was essentially a decision to leave town the next morning as we had no intent of hiking Haizi Valley without horses. And the third valley? Judging by reports from the Chinese side of the Internet the Changping Valley was probably the most arduous of the three, and we didn't bother to find out.



The sweeping scenery of wooly yaks grazing on golden alpine pastures was especially charming under the warmth of the setting sun. Shuangqiao Valley had its photogenic side, though it's not quite at the same world-class level as Huanglong or Jiuzhaigou in my humble opinion. But it's still a worthwhile stopover between the Danba Canyons and Dujiangyan on the Chengdu flood plains.



At one point I tried to sneak closer to some semi-domesticated yaks for a better photo, but our driver yelled to summon me back. Apparently the yaks were known to be aggressive against strangers and a few unsuspecting tourists had been gorged. I had to be thankful that I didn't become the next victim, especially on a day full of other mishaps.



It was almost 18:00 when we returned to the park entrance, only to be mobbed by a number of Tibetan hawkers for various local produces. Most prominent were the typical Yak Jerky or the highly treasured Caterpillar Fungus, but we were most tempted by an offer of dried Matsutake Mushrooms for a substantial RMB 750 (CAD$134) per 500g. I have to confess that I considered haggling, but sane reasoning took over and I realized that I had absolutely no idea how to distinguish a real Matsutake in its dried form.



As mentioned we walked into Jiarong Yangguang Hotel at noon and were lucky to get a 2-star room at the same price (RMB 238) as pre-booking online. Sleeping at 3200m above sea level gave us our first taste of mild altitude sickness in the form of rapid heartbeats and difficulties in breathing. In retrospect missing Haizi Valley was probably a blessing in disguise, as we returned to a much lower elevation the next day.



In terms of restaurants we arrived with no expectations for the townful of eateries catering to tourists rather than locals. But we did stumble upon a couple of recommendable choices.



This was a tiny noodles house run by a young couple from Chengdu, specializing in the peasant favorite of Feichang Fen (Rice Noodles with Pork Intestines). The tripes came without any hint of the weird aftertaste typical of the frozen stuff, and the soup was appetizingly spicy at a manageable level. It was a quick, cheap and enjoyable lunch, but it was our restaurant in the evening that really stole the show.

Bill for Two Persons

Rice Noodles with Pork Intestines (Large)	RMB 13
Rice Noodles with Spareribs (Large)	RMB 13
TOTAL before tips	RMB 26 (CAD$4.6)

This hole-in-the-wall eatery is one I would WHOLEHEARTEDLY RECOMMEND to travelers passing by Mount Siguniang. Xiangbala Fandian was a tiny place run by a Tibetan lady and her elementary-school-aged daughter, and here we had one of our most memorable meals of our 18-day trip.



My eyes lit up when we saw Matsutake Mushrooms on the menu. MATSUTAKE MUSHROOMS!! In the middle of nowhere on the Tibetan Plateau! We started with the pictured broth of seasonal wild mushrooms resembling some sorts of chanterelles and porcinis. After one sip of the soup I was fully convinced of the excellent quality of the ingredients -- you really can't judge a restaurant by its storefront.



When I ordered the Matsutake I honestly expected about 5 slices, based on my previous experience in Japan where a 3000yen (CAD$32) order of Yaki Matsutake would typically come in 4-5 slices. While this was rural China where prices should be much cheaper, I didn't know what to expect of our RMB 80 (CAD$14.3) order of Matsutake and Tibetan Cured Ham.

But the portion was much larger than I dared to dream. There must have been at least 20 slices of Matsutake! And I probably had about 15 as my lovely wife saw the way I craved this elusive ingredient and let me finish most of it.



Looking at this picture I still remember vividly that sweet aroma of pine needles in the Matsutake, accompanied by the deep piquancy of Tibetan Ham. It was easily the best mushroom dish I've ever had, in terms of both quality and quantity, and the one dish that made our mini-trip to the Eastern Tibetan Plateau worthwhile. Yes, it's that good.



At the end we paid RMB 124 (CAD$22) for a meal of Matsutake and Porcini that would surely cost RMB 500 in Beijing, and probably upwards of 15000 yen (CAD$160) in Tokyo. My only regret was in listening to the owner's description of her proudest creation -- Slow-Braised Whole Duck with Matsutake -- which we would have no chance of tasting as we're leaving town the next morning.

Bill for Two Persons

Matsutake Mushrooms with Tibetan Cured Ham	RMB 80
Broth of Assorted Wild Mushrooms	RMB 25
Stir-Fried Spinach	RMB 19
TOTAL before tips	RMB 124 (CAD$22.1)

On a day of theatrical twists and turns there was one more surprise to come. Chatting with the restaurant owner I mentioned our plan to leave for Dujiangyan the next day, the exorbitant quote of RMB 900 (CAD$160) for a private taxi, and our disappointment at the lack of a bus station in town. The owner listened quietly and smiled, before she finally let out the punchline ...

"I'm the bus ticket agent in this town," she said simply.



So that's the fairytale ending ... an implausible coincidence that could only be explained as blessings from above. We returned the next morning for a breakfast of Tibetan Cheese Curd Buns while waiting for our bus, which would purposely stop in front of the restaurant expecting us. We have much to thank our gracious hostess, for the delectable Matsutake Mushrooms and for delivering us safely to our next destination.

For fellow travelers visiting Mount Siguniang, the location of this ticket agency/restaurant is right below Jiarong Yangguang Hotel on the main highway, just before the turn-off to Changping Valley. As of late 2014 our bus to Dujiangyan arrived at 08:10 and cost RMB 100. A different bus to Chengdu passed by at 08:00. And while you're in town, do your tastebuds a favor and don't miss the Matsutake if you happen to be visiting in the autumn!